Restorreporter4DiscussLhotse: Climbing the Steep Face of Everest’s Sister Peak
The fourth highest mountain in the world, standing 8,516 meters (27,940 feet) high, Lhotse has often been overlooked due to its more celebrated and famous neighbor — Mount Everest. Until the South Col, Lhotse takes off on it after sharing an common base for two peaks forming a different exposure from its beautiful and daunting aunt. Although it is often referred to as the “South Peak” of Everest (its name means that in Tibetan), Lhotse climbs are very distinct from climbing neighboring Everest itself. It is most famous for its Lhotse Face, a steep wall of ice that the climbers attempt ascending to reach the top.
Because if mountaineers want to push the envelope on a steep, technical peak without the Everest-like crowds of other mountains, factor in this easygoing gem. But don’t think of it as simply Everest’s “sister peak.” With steep icy faces, a well-earned rap for altitude sickness, and notoriously fickle weather patterns, K2 is a daunting — and deadly — challenge to all but the most experienced climbers.
Lhotse Detailed Climbing Routes, History and Challenges — 30 Best Mountain Ranges SubLObjectHimalayasClimbLhotseIn this Blog post I am going to share guide about Lhotse climbing routes, history & challenge as a climber over two decades. Whether you are an aspiring climber seeking to add an 8,000 meter peak to your resume or a curious mountain aficionado with all the interest in Himalayan lore, this guide will give you a thorough understanding of what it takes to climb Lhotse.
The Geography of Lhotse
Located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas, Lhotse is situated a mere 3 kilometres south part to Mount Everest on the border between Tibet Autonomous Region (China) and Khumbu region of Nepal. The mountain is linked to Everest through the South Col, a high pass that can be seen at 7927 m and forms a simple route of ascent (+) used to climb both peaks. Among the mountain’s most defining features is an unbelievably high (800 meters) and forbidding wall of glacial ice called the Lhotse Face, a brutal challenge for climbers attempting to summit.
Actually, Lhotse is three separate peaks:
Lhotse Main (8,516 meters), the most climbed peak
Lhotse Middle (8,414 m.) unclimbed until the year 2001
Lhotse Shar (8,383m): a peak on the same ridge, south of the main summit.
Though Lhotse is closely tied to Everest, I can assure you, it will also provide a vastly different and more solitary experience. The mountain is steeper and less crowded than Everest, drawing more experienced climbers looking for a technical and quieter climb. The Lhotse Couloir, a tortuous gully leading to the top — arguably one of the most technical finishes for any 8,000-meter peak climb
An Abbreviated Timeline of Lhotse Ascensions
The Swiss expedition in 1956 successfully climbed the Lhotse for first time, conquering it on May 18 by two men, Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger. They climbed most of the way up following a similar path to Everest’s South Col route, before branching off near the top to head for the summit of Lhotse. It was one of the landmark expeditions in Himalayan mountaineering, since Lhotse was the last remaining unclimbed X mountain.
For many years Lhotse was little noticed from Everest, and until the summit in 1956 there were scarcely more ascents of Lhotse than there were of other 8,000-meter peaks. The majority of the mountaineering deaths are blamed on the challenge of climbing Lhotse Face, a 1,125-metre wall known for its steep slopes and rough conditions. Nevertheless, as mountaineering technology and techniques advanced, many more climbers started to familiarize themselves with the peak of Lhotse and it has been gaining popularity since then on among those interested in an 8,000-meter climb without the unnecessary staged atmosphere around Everest.
The secondary peak that is the Lhotse Middle that was for long years one of the highest unclimbed points in the world, was finally topped in 2001 by a Russian expedition. The third peak in the massif is Lhotse Shar and it was first climbed in 1970 by a Japanese team. This trio of summits means that climbing Lhotse is a rewarding and diverse challenge, with plenty of routes to choose from for climbers who are up to the task.
Climbing Routes on Lhotse
The main and most-traveled high point on Lhotse is that reached by climbers to its western peak which they reach via the popular Everest South Col, a route that follows much of same approach up the Vigne Glacier. This approach will be familiar to climbers who have summited Mt Everest via the southern route since both mountains share a base camp, icefall routes and much of the Khumbu Glacier. But Lhotse splits from the Everest path near Camp 3, when climbers deviate left up the Lhotse Face instead of right to Everest’s South Col.
1. Lhotse Face and the Lhotse Couloir: The Normal Route
Most climbers who attempt to reach the summit of Lhotse do so via the standard route that involves first trekking to Everest Base Camp (5,364 meters/17,598 feet), navigating up through the Khumbu Icefall and into the Western Cwm, a broad valley surrounded by Everest on one side and Lhotse on another. Climbers continue on up to Camp 2 (6,400 meters/21,000 feet) from which they begin their assault on the dreaded Lhotse Face.
The Lhotse Face is the most difficult part of the ascend. It is a virtually vertical blue ice wall with slopes of between 40–50°, rising nearly 1,125 meters (3,690 ft) from the Western Cwm. Climbers ascend the face using fixed ropes to help secure themselves as they traverse its icy, exposed slopes. The next section of the climb is a mixture of climbing and endurance as the grade and altitude climbs steeply, so every step feels like you’ve just climbed Mt. Everest.
Climbers move from Camp 3 (7,400 meters/24,278 feet) onto the Lhotse Face en route to Camp 4 at approximately 7,800 meters (25,600 feet). The last leg to the peak is running up the Lhotse Couloir, a precarious crevasse carrying rocks and ice right up to a straight shot to summit. The climb to the summit via The couloir is one of the most popular routes known for being physically and mentally demanding; at 14,505′, you must be prepared not only for the high altitude but also its technical difficulty.
At any rate, topping out on Lhotse is a major feat that delivers sweeping views of Everest, the other Himalayan peaks and the expansive Tibetan plateau. Lhotse is one of the steeper and more technical 8,000 meter peaks and the feeling of accomplishment can be on another level.
2. Other Routes
The Lhotse Face is the most standard route, but over the years many have tried other routes on this side of the mountain. These include:
The South Face: The most demanding and least often-attempted route on Lhotse is the South Face, an almost vertical wall of ice over 10,800 feet (3,300 meters) high. B: This is one of the hardest climbs in the Himalayas, because both technically and exposure wise, this was the South Face route which was first climbed by a Soviet team in 1990.
The Northwest Ridge: a steeper, more technical variation to the standard route that is actually shorter than the South Ridge. Experience alpinists only : this is a advanced climbing and ability to understand high altitude navigation trek.
Difficulty in Climbing Lhotse
It is often called one of the hardest 8,000-meter peaks because of its steep faces and technical climbing sections. Keys problems that the climbers face climbing Lhotse are:-
1. Climbing the Lhotse Face: Icy and Technical
Probably the most recognizable part of the climb and will provide you with little help. As at lower altitudes, climbers clip into fixed ropes on the most treacherous sections and gingerly ascend, wearing crampons and wielding ice axes for purchase in icy terrain. The face can be cold and hard with few features for good holds, wind and water have also had an effect so getting a decent foot hold requires great skill.
The Lhotse Face is 40 to 50 degrees and one of the technical parts of the climb, it needs to be carefully ascended in combination with physical endurance and pacing. Mistakes are expensive, and not surprising given the face is just about as steep as it gets. In addition, the face is substantially serac threatened meaning avalanches and rock fall are both common making it a dangerous part of the climb.
2. Altitude : The Death Zone the Air is Thin
Lhotse stands at 8,516 meters within the death zone: a region of altitude above which it is impossible for the human body to acclimatize its essential functions to mesuresas sustained by most living beings (at least that we know). Altitude sickness, which can be life-threatening if not properly managed (read: ~ read my book to learn about correct acclimatization).
The vast majority of climbers use bottled oxygen for the trip to the summit and back, but experience alpinists have reached the top or summited it without supplementary oxygen. But due to the thin air, everything feels like climbing for days even with supplemental oxygen and climbers have to ration their energy during the push.
3. Unpredictable Weather
No differently than other extreme altitudes in the Himalayas, Lhotse can be a riddle when it comes to fickle weather patterns. In the fall, climbing is made especially dangerous not only because of undesirable conditions with high winds, heavy snowfall and sudden storms but also because the exploit all takes place at waist-high sections such as when crossing mountains like Lhotse (couloir).
Climbers must bide their time waiting for the perfect weather window to reach the top, only for everything to change in a matter of hours, converting what was once considered safe into extremely dangerous conditions. The low temperatures in the upper reaches also raise the risk of frostbite.
and hypothermia, so good gear and preparation is crucial.
4. Mental and Physical Endurance
Ascendance of Lhotse is a toughest challenge on all Physically and mentally. The daily routine of being on your feet and climbing, in subzero temperatures, over complicated terrain with altitude by an already defeated body quickly changes the demeanor of even veteran climbers to that resembling a drowning animal. The climb takes mental strength too, as climbers need to stay alert, make rational decisions under stress and battle their way through the pain of physical excursion.
The summit push is obviously the ultimate test of mental fortitude, as this stage of the climb underlines just how drained climbers can become and how battered they are by each day on the hill before attempting the final ascent. The Lhotse Couloir is steep, narrow and rockfall-prone sections where even when feeling exhausted from high-altitude acclimatisation, climbers must remain focused.
What It Takes To Prepare For Lhotse
Climbing Lhotse is an exercise in long-term planning, both physical and mental. Though some of the routes line up with those on Everest, it is considered a much more technical climb, which demands extensive skills and experience. Lhotse Climbing There are a few things to consider before you attempt an assault on Lhotse.ordinary or mounting
1. Physical Fitness
To be able to climb Lhotse you will need to be in peak physical condition. The ascent requires long days of schlepping heavy loads up steep, difficult-to-travel ground and is subject too to extreme weather. They should be training for stamina, power and cardiovascular endurance. Climbers should also be comfortable with their mountaineering gear, including crampons, harnesses, and ice axes as well as the ability to confidently move along technical climbing terrain.
This training involves regular hikes with weighted backpacks, long-distance running and workouts at high altitude. Climbers should also hone their snow and ice technique ability in practice to be ready at the objective end of the route traveling through technical terrain.
2. Acclimatization
Good acclimatization is paramount for success on Lhotse. Climbers have to acclimate for weeks at that high altitude, often cycling back and forth between Base Camp and the higher camps multiple times before making a summit bid. It prepares the body for the final assault to the top, and reduces (slightly) the chances of altitude sickness.
Even if one is extensively acclimatized, some amount of altitude sickness will be probably experienced (like being shorted of breath, headache and tiredness etc.). Key to handling these challenges effectively is pacing and making sure that the process is pre-planned.
3. Mental Toughness
It was as much a head game as it is climbing the mountain of Lhotse. For even the best of climbers, isolation, punishing cold and sheer fatigue can lead to trouble. You need to develop mental toughness so you can deal with the inevitable discomfort of climbing and maintain laser focus on reaching the summit.
Take-away: A Prize to Climb Lhotse
To scale Lhotse itself is quite the accomplishment for any mountaineer. Although it may be similar in many respects to Everest, Lhotse possess a character uniquely its own thanks to the steep technical aspects of this route and also because one climbs the peak fairly isolated from others making is even more special. This demands an enormous amount of physical and mental strength, as well the requisite technical skill, but the triumph of reaching the peak of earth’s fourth-tallest mountain is a victory unlike any other.
Lhotse is an ideal high-altitude challenge for anyone looking to tackle a less-crowded climb with some extra challenge. Victoria Pendleton and Ben Fogle return to the mountain that tested them to the limit, as they tackle one of Everest’s toughest climbs in an all-new adventure that takes them deep into “the death zone” for the first time.
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