Kangchenjunga: Himalaya Ka Mahaparvat.
The third highest mountain in the world, Kangchenjunga soars to a height of 8,586 meters (28,169 feet) and is one of the standout peaks across the entire Himalayan range. In the eastern Himalayas, on the border between Nepal and Indian state of Sikkim, Kangchenjunga is a testament to untouched beauty, pure isolation. Yet – being a 8000m peak, much like Everest or K2 up north – it is still far less frequently visited, preserving the mountain an enigmatic and feared character amongst both climbers and remote communities worshiping the God of spirits residing in their holy abode.
The Kangchenjunga is named “The Five Treasures of Snow” in Tibetan, based on the five classical elements which also explains the five peaks, cherished by locals as being a representation of prosperity, longevity, and strength. The inaccessibility of Kangchenjunga (the second most inaccessible 8,000 m peak after Nanga Parbat) has meant that it is a less popular mountain than the other 8000 metre peaks. Kangchenjunga: For those of you who are looking for a more authentic, less commercialized Himalayan experience, this is the holy grail of high altitude climbing.
In this blog, as a trail runner, mountaineer and outdoor enthusiast I am going to tell how it is to maneuver round on Kangchenjunga …including brief history of Kangchenjunga, climbing routes and difficulty with long pending search & rescue missions_recuses. For aspiring climbers or anyone intrigued by the impoverished grandeur of the Himalaya, this exhaustive how-to offers a rare glimpse into the world of Kangchenjunga.
An account on Kangchenjunga Geography
It is situated in the eastern section of the Himalayas where it serves as a natural border between Nepal and Sikkim, India. The mountain massif is comprised of five primary peaks, though Kangchenjunga Main is the tallest. The five peaks—Kangchenjunga Main (8,586 meters), Kangchenjunga West (8,505 meters), Kangchenjunga Central (8,482 meters), Kangchenjunga South (8,494 meters) and Kangbachen (7,903 meters)—create a giant massif with many ridges and faces which is the most dominant feature of this region.
The most obvious distinction of Kangchenjunga, however, is its loneliness. Unlike the World War I graveyard-like base camps of Everest or Annapurna, with crisscrossing strings of gear-laden trekkers ascendiing and descending around red Medical Association tents—or the post-Apocalyptic McClod-run amusement arcades for olympicsites that define every other access route to those peaks—getting to Kangchenjunga is a long schlep through isolated valleys, primeval forests and innumerable villages. One of the most remote 8,000-meter peaks in the world with minimal infrastructure and support systems.
It is also a global biodiversity hotspot. The Kangchenjunga Conservation Area in Nepal and the Khangchendzonga National Park in India protect a fragile alpine environment, an emblematic landscape that is home to endangered species including snow leopard, red panda, and Himalayan black bear. Moreover, for trekkers and peak climbers, the Kangchenjunga journey does not only serve as a high-altitude expedition but also forms an ecological and traditional exploration to miles of unspoiled biodiversity and local cultural settlements within the Himalayas.
Kangchenjunga – The Holy Mountain
Kangchenjunga, which is difficult in its own right, has religious importance. Kangchenjunga is especially sacred to the indigenous people of Sikkim and eastern Nepal. The five peaks are interpreted as the five sacred treasures of God — gold, silver, gems, grain and holy texts — which nourishes the surrounding locals with wealth and protection.
The mountain is so sacred to the people of our region that most local communities refuse to issue permits for its climb even the government of Sikkim which controls the peak has restricted climbing on it. And even until few years back, climb on Kangchenjunga from the Indian side was completely banned owing to respect of its sacred status. To nowadays, many climbing expeditions stopped just below the actual summit in traditional reverence to local customs and beliefs: atop their peak no man should tread.
This respect for Kangchenjunga gives climbers more reason to climb it, as opposed to simply ticking off another 8000 meter peak; a reminder that the mountain is not just an inanimate object to be climbed but a living representative of the spiritual world and Mother Nature.
View at Amazon: History of the Ascents of Kangchenjunga (Formerly Kanchenjunga; The Triumph & The Tragedy)
The story of climbing Kangchenjunga is one of victory and tragedy. The earliest serious plans to ascend Kangchenjunga began in the early 1910s, but it was not until May 25th, 1955 (the year and date) that British climbers Joe Brown and George Band finally reached the summit. Scaling the Southwest Face from the Nepal Side, Brown and Band famously refrained from setting foot on the top itself out of respect for generations that have kept that spot unused.
The pair soon learned why Kangchenjunga was such an unknown quantity back then: they already sat close to 6,000m above the earth’s surface, in a zone far from Varela and Mayer’s expertise. The mountain’s precipitous ridgelines, avalanche-prone slopes and worst weather on earth make it one of the most challenging climbs among the 8,000m peaks. Rescue operations on Makalu are difficult, no small part due to the harsh and often unpredictable weather conditions on the mountain as well as its remote location, which only adds to the inherent hazards of climbing it.
Several routes have been opened on Kangchenjunga since the 1955 expedition, but it remains one of the least climbed-of-the-8000ers. The absence of commercial climbing and the challenge makes Kangchenjunga a relatively more ‘elite’ destination. It appeals only to the bravest and most technically proficient climbers, and is still high in risk even for them.
Rock Climbing Routes of Kanchenjunga
There are multiple routes to climb Kangchenjunga and each one presents its own array of challenges. Feared for its technical challenge, the mountain features steep ice walls, dangerous crevasses and avalanche-prone slopes. Feeding off the mountain adds another element of difficulty, as climbers are forced to be entirely self-sufficient contrary to long periods of time restricted from civilization.
1. The Standard Route, Southwest Face
It is the normal route upto Kangchenjunga and most frequently spotted in the South face. Joe Brown and George Band first made their way up Kanchenjunga on this line in 1955, it even now serves as the standard route for modern expeditions. It is an ascent from the south face of the mountain that begins in Nepal, where Base Camp sits at around 5,200 meters (17,060 feet).
The route is a marathon-length sufferfest, requiring multiple high camps as you climb higher. Climbers must ascend steep snow and ice slopes as well traverse exposed ridges where avalanches and rockfall are common. The climbers move higher through progressive camps: Camp 1(6,200 meters), Camp 2 (6,500 Meters), Camp 3 (7,300 meters) and the final push from camp 4 — the South Col at 7,900m. The eponymous final push to the summit is a series of steep, exposed paths across both ice and rock adding this section as a test on endurance, balance and sharp technical skill.
2. The Northeast Ridge
The Northeast Ridge also on the Tsangpo or Tibetan side is a considerably less popular route but provides a much shorter approach to the summit. The route is across ice walls, glaciers and through severe ridges. While it’s a bit less technical than the Southwest Face, the Northeast Ridge isn’t without its own problems: securing permits from the Chinese side and the sheer remoteness of the route.
The line is usually tried by experienced, smaller teams capable of handling the logistics involved in climbing such a remote route.
3. Other Routes
Kangchenjunga: Apart form the main two routes, there are few other less trekked route in Kangchenjunga. Namely the Northwest Face, the Southeast Ridge, West Ridge and few more. These routes are often picked by climbers looking for new challenges — or a first ascent, even — though they carry greater risks and demand extensive experience of 8,000 meter alpinism.
Challenges of climbing Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga was considered to be among the most difficult and hazardous of all mountains, since it has never been climbed in territories that have law enforcements. There are main tough challenge that climbers have to face on climbing this Himalayas giant.
1. Technical Difficulty
The combination of Kangchenjunga’s steep ridges, sharp ice walls, and prone-to-avalanche slopes make it one of the most technical 8,oookm peaks. The standard approach is dangerous, with steep ice and mixed rock climbs above 20,000 feet. The last mile to the top is perilous, with knife-edge ridges and underfoot snow, braced against collapsing cornices.
Climbers do make use of fixed ropes to assist with the most technical parts of the ascent, but the extreme altitude and harsh conditions that start at 800 meters above sea level only make climbing more challenging.
2. Unpredictable Weather
As with all things high on the roof of the world, Kangchenjunga is subject to sudden and severe weather changes. Winds, snowfall and sudden precipitation can be dangerous especially at high altitudes. The isolation of the mountain also requires climbers to wait at higher camps for extended periods in order to seize a safe window capable for reaching the summit.
Winters in the summit area of Kangchenjunga are extremely cold experienced temperatures as low as −43 °C and high winds that increase these dangers. Even well-planned trips had painful retreat days due to weather.
3. Altitude and Acclimatization
By 8500 meters, Kangchenjunga is in the “Death Zone”, where it is unable for a human body to retain adequate oxygen for a long duration of time. That means that high-altitude climbers must progressively acclimate in order to avoid altitude sickness — a potentially deadly ailment, if not treated effectively.
For most people, climbing Kangchenjunga requires weeks of acclimatization with several rotations between Base Camp and the higher camps to give
to acclimate their bodies to the elevation. The extreme altitude means that every step — with proper acclimatization or not — is physically and mentally taxing, especially as you near the summit push.
4. Isolation and Logistics
Another challenge to climb Kangchenjunga, the world fourth highest mountain is its remoteness. The journey to Base Camp itself takes days — sometimes weeks — of trekking up and down remote valleys, through forests that are essentially outposts; there is very little infrastructure or support for those on their way. On the mountain, climbing teams are self-reliant, carrying all their gear and supplies with them.
The remote location of Kangchenjunga and the lack of helicopter access at higher altitudes make rescue operations extremely challenging. This does not mean climbers are totally on their own – and they come prepared for death in the sense that they have the knowledge, skills, and experience for some last minute first-aid or other emergency treatment or scenario.
Getting Ready for Kangchenjunga: What It Requires
Reaching the top of Kangchenjunga takes months of physical and emotional preparation. What it takes to climb one of the hardest mountains on Earth:
1. Physical Fitness
Attempt of Kangchenjunga requires you to be at the best of physical fitness. Rustry long days of carrying heavy loads, battling high altitude and gaining the technical terrain need to be backed with a high level of fitness, strength and endurance. Climbers should train to improve their cardio and strength by doing regular training such as hiking, running with long distances, and strength conditioning.
2. Technical Skills
Kangchenjunga is a hard peak to climb it mandatories very advance level of rock and ice climbing profficienes along with crevasse rescue and icy climb. Climbers must be adept at wiggling across steep exposed sections that require the use of crampons, ropes and ice axes.
Some climbers will use ascents on 6-7,000-meter peaks as preparation for Kangchenjunga to acclimatize and increase climbing skills in high altitude.
3. Acclimatization Strategy
Well seeping into our minds — is that after all a good acclimatisation routine ends with the summitting of Kangchenjunga. And most expeditions stick to the usual grind: after flying to Lukla, trekkers spend several weeks climbing up and down between Base Camp (5360m) and higher camps to help their bodies slowly adjust.
Acclimatizing well can only do so much however – the altitude effect can be severe and an individual climbing in “the death zone” must be prepared to deal both physically and mentally with this.
4. Mental Toughness
Ascending Kangchenjunga is at least as much about one’s mind as the body. The isolation, the long hours of exposure to subfreezing temperatures and violence-induced physical exhaustion make even experienced climbers vulnerable. The psychological toughness required to endure the pain and remain singularly focused on climbing the peak.
Climbers also need the ability to make tough choices, such as retreating if circumstances grow risky. The mountain isn’t going anywhere and knowing when to call it a day is paramount to surviving on this deadly peak.
The Summit Experience
Striking the summit of Kangchenjunga is a phenomenal attainment. The final climb is lengthy and exhausting, but the view is well worth the struggle. Climbers are rewarded for summiting with breathtaking, panoramic views of the Everest region, playing host to Himalayan behemoths like Everest, Lhotse and Makalu. It is a great feeling of achievement, but also the mountain is not only a physical as one will find out very quickly: it is on also spiritual levels.
For some, summiting Kangchenjunga is a life changing event. It is a mountain that should be respected but also one that provides an intimately alluring presence with nature and the raw essence of the Himalaya. The climb to the top is a climber’s first true test in terms of their physical endurance, mental strength and mountaineering ability.
Conclusion – The Un-touched Majesty of the Himalayas
Kangchenjunga, the third tallest mountain in the world, embodies both the physical and spiritual difficulty of high-altitude climbing. Only for those who ready to hit the killer inclines, cope with fickle weather and deal with the high-altitude conditions on offer is the reward going to be an experience very few will ever enjoy.
I, as a 20+ years mountaineers can confirm to one of the best high-altitude climbs — summiting Kangchenjunga. It continues to be a mountain that both demands respect and provides an adventure like no other. Kangchenjunga — Whether you have spent years scaling the mountains of the world in search of your next demo or whether it is a mountain that dismantles you just to look at, this is one set of summits to make your spirit soar.
For the brave souls who climb this legendary mountain, climbing Kangchenjunga is a matter of skill, stamina and mental toughness. But the payoff of being at one of the most stunning and pristine mountains in existence is an experience that hardly la condition for anyone will ever forget.
A complete guide to the history and difficulties of Kangchenjunga — be sure to check this page out as it is full of information, written by a leading Mountaineer with excellent details about one almost untouched giant of the Himalayas.
